16 December 2010 - Namibia: Luderitz and Kalhari Desert - SA: Cederberg Region and Cape Town

16 December

The road to/from Luderitz, was stunning but caused havoc with bike. Strong winds blew fine sand into wheel bearings and onto brake pads. Tyres were also practically bald by now. Could not risk another 300km on gravel roads (many small sharp stones!), so eventually decided against the visit to Fish River Canyon. Instead I raced onto SA border on 15th. 

The Skeleton Coast,half way between Walvis Bay and Luderitz

Temp in Kalahari desert on way down was 49C! I opened my visor to get some relief, instead the air felt like a hair dryer on full blast! I made it to Springbok that eve, at 485 miles, this was the longest days ride. 

Kalhari Desert - crosses Botswana, Namibia and South Africa.This shot
was taken in Nambibia.

Yesterday, non-stop rain forced me to stop in Cederberg region, allegedly beautiful countryside, but now cloaked in mist/rain. The Region's Annual rain fell in just 2days. On a bike you really are constantly battling the elements! 

Cederberg Region, South Africa - This is what Jay was missing!

Today, I finally arrived in Capetown!!!

Cape Town, South Africa

13 December 2010 - Namibia

It feels like I have been riding for an eternity on dusty gravel and sand roads across the vast barren wildernesses of this astonishingly beautiful country. Daytime (shade) temperatures reach 42-45 deg C. I don't even want to know what the temperature is out in the desert sun! Criss-crossing through the Namibian Desert over the last week has been quite physically demanding. The sandy stretches of these dirt roads in particular send the back wheel into wild swerves like a fish flapping its tail. You feel like you're continuously about to be thrown off, and requires intense concentration and balance to counter each wobble. And then there's the Namibian sun frying your skull within the helmet. It can be quite unnerving but I seem to have developed the knack of it by now. I recall from Ewan McGregor on Long Way Down how difficult it is dealing with the dreaded soft sand.

Namibian Desert

On Saturday, I got to Sossusvlai, which is easily Namibia's greatest attraction. The world's tallest sand dunes (380m!) over lap in massive red waves, against the backdrop of a deep blue sky. This 'red sea' stretches for 55km all the way to the real sea (the wet blue one!). There's not a lot more to add other than check out the images on google.....

Sossusvlai, Namibia - Tallest sand dunes

Yesterday, I left Sossusvlai, generally aiming south along the country's single North-South tarmac road. As adventurous as the dirt roads are, I was getting quite tired of them. Also, there's always the fear that if I did have a big wipe out and got injured, it could be a day before another person comes along. This country is vast and the population is less than 1.8m; roads are very quite out here! I've concluded that you really want to be riding with a mate out in the deserts! Anyway, I made it as far as Keetmanshoop where I camped amidst a forest of the amazing 'quiver tree'. Like the baobab 'tree', it's actually a large cacti/aloe. I was the only person there. At night I could hear several creatures coming over to my tent to check me out. It was a tad unnerving, but I was fairly sure there were no big cats in that area. In the morning I awoke to discover several different hoof and paw prints all around my tent!

Keetmanshoop, Namibia

This morning I was heading down towards Fish River Canyon, (world's 2nd largest) when I made another of my last minute changes at a fork on the road...(If anyone was with me on this trip, I would have driven them berserk by now!).

Fish River Canyon, Namibia

Anyway, I decided to head over to Luderitz on the coast. It's another exceedingly German seaside town. 

Luderitz, Namibia

The special draw here is Kolmanskop -  a former diamond mine complete with a staff complex. Ever since the diamonds dried up around WW1, It has been a ghost town over run by the encroaching desert...eary place! The other big draw for me was the stunning scenery desert scenery, albeit from the comfort of a tarmac road! You're not allowed to even step away from the access road as you get closer to Luderitz, as the surrounding countryside is still littered with diamonds!

Kolmanskop, Namibia - Deserted diamong mining town

Kolmanskop, Namibia - Open door filled with sand

Tomorrow morning I will head back towards the Fish River Canyon. Plan is to spend one night there and then cross over to SA. From there's it's a straight dash to Cape Town, ETA pm 16th Dec.... That's only 1 day behind schedule. 

I've been surprised my number of 'coloured' folk down in southern Namibia. That's what we call 'mixed race'. The majority of poor rural folk here seem to be of this ethnic group. I'm told that there are many colored people also in the western side of SA. By contrast, in Eastern SA, there were comparably few coloured people. I wonder whether this had anything to do with the much more acrimonious relations with the Zulu in those parts?! Going back, the normal African observation on my travels that 'fair skinned = wealthy' breaks down here. There's much more to add here, but I'm running out of time... United play Arsenal soon, and I still need to get showered and changed... Ahhh, that might also have factored into why I wanted to be in a town tonight and not out by some canyon... !!!!

3-9 December 2010 - Botwsana & Namibia

3 December

A couple of days back, I eventually managed to find a single engine Cessna to fly over the delta.  As impressive as the  views were, I had not realised it was going to be such a stomach churner; I just about held onto my breakfast! Yesterday I rode up to the Namibian border at the western end of the Caprivi Strip (and no, that's not a girlie bar!).  

Caprivi Strip, Botswana

Final memories of Botswana were unfortunately of the thousands of cows and donkeys that literally live on the roadside. You'd have thought they had got used to passing traffic. Oh no, they scramble around in a mad panic as you approach them (even when slowing down!). I had at least 3 'heart stoppers' yesterday! 

Finished the day at the beautiful Ngepi campsite, camping  on the Okavango river bank. Their jungle toilets/showers are renowned, as is the croc cage, the only safe way to swim in the river! 

Ngepi Camp, Nambia

Today, I am heading for Grootfontein, site of world's largest meteoric. Got totally drenched in a thunderstorm (again!) at Rundu on Angolan border. Riding through the lightning storms is pretty scary, but essential to keep to the schedule. It's dry now, will plough on...

5 December

The Hoba meteorite was just big block (55 ton) of iron/nickel. dont really know what I was expecting... some kind of extra terrestrial experience?! 

Hoba Metorite, Namibia

Yesterday I was unable to rent any car to go into Etosha National Park (bikes not allowed), so decided to ride towards park and just see what turns up. A luxury camp just outside the park: Mushara Lodge had a Landover leaving in 5 min; I quickly checked in and jumped on. Etosha is one of Africa's classic safaris. Thanks to extraordinary vision of guide, we saw 'everything' - even elusive black rhino and leopard. So glad I decided to go with a pro guide-tracker. Now feel satiated with wildlife, but can see how people get hooked. Dinner that eve was Kudu, a magnificent creature, whether walking across the plains or medium rare. Today

Leopards, Etosha National Park

Black Rhino, Etosha National Park

Kudo

I started riding towards Damaraland, a stark wilderness with 1000s of prehistoric bushmen paintings/engravings and rugged but beautiful landscapes. 

Damaraland, Namibia

Am staying in lodge outside Outjo tonight, aiming for Twyfelfontein area tomorrow. Local languages around here are fascinating to hear, notes/ sounds unlike any I have heard before. Namibia is very big for red meat. Today I finally invested in some braai (bbq) kit, campsites here and in SA are so well geared up for it. Also, meat is well reared, tender and affordable. In fact, Namibia feels lot like SA. Very similar racial and socio-economic setup, but seemingly minus the crime/violence/corruption.

9 December

I made it to Twyfelfontein and saw the 6000yr old rock engravings. They are Namibia’s one and only World Heritage Site. There are many theories about San Bushmen’s rock art. The one given most credence is that they were used as part of transcendental rituals to communicate with the after life - spiritual world - `the other side`. The following morning I headed for the skeleton coast. The local Damara people warned me there is nothing there; I did not expect them to be quite so literal. In an already very desolate country, the skeleton coast takes top prize for sheer `nothingness`!

Twyfelfontein, Namibia - Lion Rock Art

Day before yesterday, I got to Swakopmond, Namibia’s Blackpool, but with a strong German flavour! Bizzare hey?!

Swakopmond, Namibia

Highlight there was the ski boarding yesterday. Why did the Arabs never think of that?! It was great fun learning how to snow board, but on sand. Mind you, the climbing back up the 100m dunes run was not fun at all. The finale was flat boarding, where you lie down on a piece of thin board, flex the leading edge upwards and throw your self down a 200m sand dune with your face inches above the sand flying past at 50 mph!

Sandboarding

Today, I rode to Windhoek the capital, through the Namib Desert. For 3 hours I did not see a single person. Then a pick up truck turned up out of no where, signed me to pull over...it was 3 totally pissed white farmers who wanted to know if I had any booze!

Windhoek, Namibia

Anyway, I will spend tomorrow here, before heading down to Sossusvlei and the giant sand dunes.

30 November 2010 - Botswana - Maun & Okavango Delta

30 Nov

I got to Maun this morning; it's the staging post for forays into the Okavango Delta. I had just popped out to pick up some meat for the braai (barbecue) at the campsite tonight, when the heavens opened up! Even last night there was an astonishing light show of a thunderstorm just north of where I was camping. The sky was like an enormous strobe light. 

Maun, Botwsana

I'm currently trying to get a seat on a little Cessna plane to fly over the Delta. I can't afford to charter a flight, but am looking around for any travellers who may also be interested in sharing a flight. It's got to be the best way of absorbing exactly what's going on in this bizarre part of the planet! A river just flows along until it reaches a desert and then starts sprawling out until it runs out of steam! The amount of watering entering the delta equals the amount that's evaporating. Apparently, a huge earthquake originally caused this phenomenon, by diverting the river's route away from the sea.

Okvango River Meander, Botswana

Okavango Delta, Botswana

23-29 November 2010 - SA, Zimbabwe and Botswana

November 23
Got to Nelspruit okay, met a biker from Joburg there. We spent yesterday riding around the spectacular Blyde River Canyon, the eucalyptus and pine forests around Graskop, Sabie, and Hazyview. 

Blyde River Canyon

We stayed in a tropical forest last night and cooked up a classic braai; and slung on the biggest chunk of cow I have ever seen onto a big grille! Took us an hour to get the damp forest wood alight. Had to pull some fuel out of the bikes to get it going! 

Heading for Musina tonight, will cross border to Zimbabwe tomorrow. Plan is to race up to Bulawayo the next day.

Nov 26, 2010
Zimbabwe started of very bleak coming through from SA. Was repeatedly warned not to stop at the roadside! Through desperation, people have resorted to crime. Real pity, Zimbabwe folk otherwise generally have a great reputation in southern Africa as smart, hardworking, polite, peaceful people. However Bulawayo (Zimbabwe 2nd city) was a revelation; it was very organised, clean, charming, and seemingly prosperous. Outside of SA, it is the most impressive city I visited, in respect of above. 

Bulwayo

Today I saw a farmer taking a roadside power nap at wheel of his tractor. He had no red triangle to warn other drivers of this obstacle, so he stacked 3 (red) cans of coke instead. African ingenuity, Zimbabwe consideration! 

The shops are well stocked, restaurants serve good food. So different to what I expected; I picked up muesli (for sustenance) at border in SA! 

Spent yesterday in the bizarre granite boulder landscape of Matopos, where Cecil Rhodes chose to be buried. Today I rode to Victoria falls. Can hear the roar, can't wait to see it tomorrow. Will probably leave day after for Botswana.

Balancing rocks at Matopos, these ancient natural monuments can be seen in various
parts of Zimbabwe. Ancestors used to live amongst them, and they are held as spiritual.

Nov 29, 2010
2 days ago I went up in a helicopter to fly over the Victoria Falls. It truly is one of those 'do before you die' events!   

Ariel View of Victoria Falls

Yesterday I crossed into Botswana, camped on the Chobe river, outside a town called Kasane. In evening I went on a river safari, up into the Chobe park. Highlight was definitely seeing a pack of the extremely rare wild dogs in formation along the river bank, chasing down impala; masterful team work, another WOW occasion! 

Chobe National Park

African Wild Dogs

3 recently discovered big diamond mines have totally transformed Botswana. Also, a working democracy has ensured the wealth is spread (by African standards!). 

I'm heading south for Nata now and will camp somewhere along the road to Maun tonight, probably beside the Makgadikgadi Pans. Should reach Maun, my base for the Okavango Delta tomorrow eve. 

18-20 November 2010 - South Africa - Port Shepstone, Eshowe

18th November
Am frozen solid from continuous rain and high winds, altitude mostly over 2km, but will live. Today was 12 hour ride, just to try and get out of the cold. Had few brandys tonight. Its always too hot or too cold on this trip!     


20th November
Just completed 4 days around Lesotho; going up Sani Pass, leaving at Quachers nek. Its all stunning wild scenery, fantastic riding country (albeit quite wet at the mo). Spent one night thawing out in Port Shepstone on south coast. 

Port Shepstone

Am in Eshowe today, nursing terrible hangover, courtesy of local brew Zulu Blond and v friendly locals...dreading meeting them again for Boks (rugby) game this pm! Will now head up to Nelspruit tomorrow. Am loving SA, but am bit behind schedule...

16 November 2010 - South Africa - Pietermaritzburg, Himeville / Lesotho, Sani Pass, Mokhotlong, Thaba Tseka

After leaving Durban, I made it as far as Pietermaritzburg that evening. The locals plied me with some SA brandy and directed me to a fantastic curry house, just next door. There is a sizable Indian population in town, and standard of curries was very good. 

Pietermaritzburg

Next morning, I headed over to the base of Sani pass, near a small town called Himeville. Weather was not great at low level and would surely be atrocious up the Sani pass. I made another foray into the beautiful Drakensburg Park that afternoon, and did about 2 hours of walking.

The gamble paid off and the following morning was blue skies. The pass is indeed a very dramatic entrance into Lesotho, and the final 20 minutes of the pass see the track climb at crazy gradient hair pin bends with loose rock/gravel, making for a very slippery surface. I was glad to be going up and not having to come down this way. 

Sani Pass

I celebrated the ascent with a pint of stout in Afria's highest pub. 

Sani Top Chalet - Highest Pub in Africa

Yesterday evening, I made it as far as Mokhotlong. I stayed at a guest house provided by nuns at St James Mission. They have no electricity, we walked around with parrafin lamps all evening. Given the aging furniture, it felt like a period Victorian drama scene! 

St James Lodge, Lesotho

This morning, I left for Katse Dam, a huge hydroelectric project that brings this resourceless mountainous state some vital foreign income. The scenery has been striking today, particularly when i got to a canyon formed by the Senqu river. Unlike the Grand Canyon, you don't just admire the canyon form above, the road meanders all around it, making for stunning panoramas all around. The charms of this little country are attributable to its wild barren mountainous scenery. I don't think there are many actual attractions as such. 

Senqu River, Lesotho

Anyway, I only made it as far as Thaba Tseka, when the rain forced me off. Unfortunately, there are no beds in town, so I will just make a dash for it as soon as I have finished this email. I'm told Katse Dam has a lodge. After seeing the dam project, I will generally head up North towards Butha Buthe, (although I have not reads up yet to see where the attractions / accommodations are). 

Thaba Tseka

7-13 November 2010 - South Africa - Durban, Drakensburgs & Durban

Time has flown by, and suddenly it's two months, half way through Jay's trip and I left cold wet London to join him in South Africa. We spent our first night at the Africa Regent Guesthouse in North Durban. I cannot highly recommend this place enough. The decor is African themed with amazing stuffed antelope heads on the wall, African masks and many other African cultural artefacts. The staff were very warm and welcoming, eager to share their local knowledge of the area.

Africa Regent Guesthouse, North Durban

Africa Regent Guesthouse, North Durban

The next day we headed out to the middle of nowhere in the Drakensburgs. Along the way we stopped at Howick, a really charming little town that felt like something out of a Victorian era. Very sleepy and quiet, with a definite 'go slow' attitude. 

Howick Falls

Howick - Local saleswoman of the year

Not so charming was Mooi River, a predominantly black township which turned out to be our nearest port of call to civilisation from our Guesthouse (another 45 min drive) which were staying at for the next three nights. The Antbear Guesthouse overlooks the Bushmans River and Giants Castle. It is somewhat off the beaten track, and the local's told us to watch out for the 'donglars' aka huge pot holes in the road. 

Donglars!

Antbear Guesthouse

Our Room for 3 nights

On the Tuesday we headed down to the local area known as Giants Castle for some hiking and to view some old rock paintings. Absolutely magnificent, I will let the photo's speak for themselves!

Giants Castle

Unfortunately, or as it turned out fortunately, we were rained out on the Wednesday. Hiking in the rain was not my idea of fun, though Jay was game to give it a go. We headed into Mooi River for some essential supplies, aka Vodka for me and decided to have a coffee at Beannies Restaurant, a delightful place we had literally stumbled upon on our way to the guesthouse on the Monday. We spent a wonderful afternoon camped out there being fed and entertained by the owner Monique. A truly inspirational woman. Beautiful, strong, wilful, and incredibly generous - she refused to let us pay for anything we ate and drank that day (my mouth is still watering remembering her scrumptious blueberry pancakes). Here's a message from Jay: Sitting in a delightfully girlie cafe (to escape the continuous rain). I noticed the remarkably clever format for South African articulated lorries! They split the towed truck into two, thereby creating four sets of axels. This gives them about 40% extra volume of storage, from a single truck! Ingenious!!! Ah now for some more carrot cafe with Chantilly cream... LOL, trust an engineer, I admit I did not quite share his curiosity and enthusiasm for the trucks!

Monique

On the Thursday, glorious sunshine - hooray! I'd arranged the night before for Jay and I to have a horse riding lesson. The sight of Jay in his full 'protective' motorbike gear was very amusing. He was an absolute natural, once he got over the fact that the stirrups did not react in the same way as bike gears.

We checked out of our wonderful guesthouse, to head back to Durban. One of the highlights of the holiday, something I had really been looking forward to was the Karkloof Canopy Tour.

We then headed back to Durban, for another two nights at Africa Regent Guesthouse. I'd been told the steak was amazing in South Africa and I was not disappointed. Check out the Butcher Boys if you are ever in Durban.


Sadly coming to the end of the trip, and time to see some of the wild animals I'd heard so much about and leave on a high. Tala Game Reserve and the Natal Lions Park did not disappoint and I am now keen to experience a real safari.

Tala Game Reserve

Natal Lion Park