Monday, 29 November 2010

23-29 November 2010 - SA, Zimbabwe and Botswana

November 23
Got to Nelspruit okay, met a biker from Joburg there. We spent yesterday riding around the spectacular Blyde River Canyon, the eucalyptus and pine forests around Graskop, Sabie, and Hazyview. 

Blyde River Canyon
We stayed in a tropical forest last night and cooked up a classic braai; and slung on the biggest chunk of cow I have ever seen onto a big grille! Took us an hour to get the damp forest wood alight. Had to pull some fuel out of the bikes to get it going! 

Heading for Musina tonight, will cross border to Zimbabwe tomorrow. Plan is to race up to Bulawayo the next day.

Nov 26, 2010
Zimbabwe started of very bleak coming through from SA. Was repeatedly warned not to stop at the roadside! Through desperation, people have resorted to crime. Real pity, Zimbabwe folk otherwise generally have a great reputation in southern Africa as smart, hardworking, polite, peaceful people. However Bulawayo (Zimbabwe 2nd city) was a revelation; it was very organised, clean, charming, and seemingly prosperous. Outside of SA, it is the most impressive city I visited, in respect of above. 
Bulwayo
Today I saw a farmer taking a roadside power nap at wheel of his tractor. He had no red triangle to warn other drivers of this obstacle, so he stacked 3 (red) cans of coke instead. African ingenuity, Zimbabwe consideration! 

The shops are well stocked, restaurants serve good food. So different to what I expected; I picked up muesli (for sustenance) at border in SA! 

Spent yesterday in the bizarre granite boulder landscape of Matopos, where Cecil Rhodes chose to be buried. Today I rode to Victoria falls. Can hear the roar, can't wait to see it tomorrow. Will probably leave day after for Botswana.
Balancing rocks at Matopos, these ancient natural monuments can be seen in various
parts of Zimbabwe. Ancestors used to live amongst them, and they are held as spiritual.
Nov 29, 2010
2 days ago I went up in a helicopter to fly over the Victoria Falls. It truly is one of those 'do before you die' events!   
Ariel View of Victoria Falls
Yesterday I crossed into Botswana, camped on the Chobe river, outside a town called Kasane. In evening I went on a river safari, up into the Chobe park. Highlight was definitely seeing a pack of the extremely rare wild dogs in formation along the river bank, chasing down impala; masterful team work, another WOW occasion! 
Chobe National Park
African Wild Dogs
3 recently discovered big diamond mines have totally transformed Botswana. Also, a working democracy has ensured the wealth is spread (by African standards!). 

I'm heading south for Nata now and will camp somewhere along the road to Maun tonight, probably beside the Makgadikgadi Pans. Should reach Maun, my base for the Okavango Delta tomorrow eve. 

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